Hornbill has been quite flighty when it comes to locations over the years. The first one, in 2000, was held in Kohima itself before it was shifted to its present venue in 2003. Land was acquired to give it a permanent address from two villages – Kigwema and Phesama. The new name is the outcome of an unimaginative coinage of the two names but which fortunately threw up a most apt meaning – ‘new village’. After having seen, eaten, drunk it all at the festival, I decided to spend my last day in Nagaland visiting the Kigwema village, 5 km further from Kisama. If Kisama was the ‘Window to Nagaland,’ Kigwema felt like you are entering through the door. This was Nagaland before the advent of Levi jeans, Bajaj bikes, missionaries and mortar. There still stood houses made from huge planks of the hardest timber with an array of animal skulls looking down from the top. Embers still smouldered in the village square where elders were lazing away the afternoon after a hearty lunch; decisions pertaining to land or property feuds, love affairs, division of a public utility were still taken here. Women sat on porches de-chaffing rice from the granary for dinner. Little girls were bringing in firewood and tending to kitchen gardens – an early initiation into the way things were. Still are, here. As this young lady at the Directorate of Information and Public Relations told me later: “The men were the hunters, they still are the providers in most of the houses. While the house upkeep is a woman’s job.”